Annapurna Circuit: Over Thorong La, Teahouse by Teahouse

The Annapurna Circuit is the classic Himalayan teahouse trek, a slow walk from rice fields to high desert and over the 5,416 metre Thorong La. Roads now shorten parts of the old route, but the heart remains, with apple pie in Manang, prayer flags in the wind, and sunrise on Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. Teahouses mean no tents or cooking, just a daypack, a warm jacket, and patience for altitude. This guide prices it honestly for students and builds in the slow days that keep you safe.

Getting there: fly Delhi or Mumbai to Kathmandu Tribhuvan Airport, often roughly ₹10,000 to ₹18,000 return, then take a tourist bus or short flight to Pokhara or Besisahar. Tourist buses from Kathmandu to Pokhara cost roughly NPR 1,200 to NPR 3,000, about ₹750 to ₹1,900, while flights cost roughly US$90 to US$130 one way. From Besisahar take a shared jeep toward Dharapani or Chame for roughly NPR 2,000 to NPR 4,000. Keep 1 buffer day in Pokhara for permits and gear checks.

What it costs: teahouse trekking is wonderfully cheap by world standards. Rooms often cost roughly NPR 500 to NPR 1,500, about ₹300 to ₹950, and many lodges discount rooms if you eat dinner there. Dal bhat costs roughly NPR 700 to NPR 1,400, rising with altitude, while tea costs roughly NPR 250 to NPR 500 and hot showers roughly NPR 300 to NPR 600. Plan roughly NPR 4,500 to NPR 7,500 per trail day, about ₹2,800 to ₹4,700, plus transport, permits, and insurance, and check current lodge rates.

When to go: October to November brings the clearest skies, busy teahouses, and the highest prices, so book Manang and Thorong Phedi beds ahead. March to April offers rhododendron blooms, good views, and slightly fewer crowds. Avoid the June to September monsoon on the lower section, with leeches, landslides, and cloudy views, and avoid December to February unless you have winter experience, because Thorong La can close in snow. Always check local pass conditions in Manang before committing.

Stay safe: Nepal Tourism Board lists TIMS cards, trekking permits, park entry fees, and mountain safety as core planning topics, so treat permits as mandatory, not optional. Every Circuit trekker needs the Annapurna Conservation Area permit, and Indians pay the SAARC rate of NPR 1,000 against NPR 3,000 for other foreigners, double if bought at a checkpoint, so get it in Kathmandu or Pokhara. Agencies usually add a TIMS card, though checks on it are patchy. Nepal has required foreign trekkers to hire a licensed guide since April 2023, with loose enforcement on the Circuit, so ask at the permit counter whether the rule applies to you before walking solo. Carry your permits and passport copy daily, register at checkpoints, stick to the marked trail, and start pass day before dawn with headlamps. Never cross Thorong La in bad weather against local advice.

Altitude, acclimatisation, and insurance: Thorong La at 5,416 metres is serious altitude, and rushing it causes most evacuations. Build at least 2 acclimatisation nights around Manang at 3,540 metres, with day hikes to Ice Lake or Gangapurna Lake. Climb high, sleep low, hydrate steadily, limit alcohol, and descend immediately with headache, nausea, or coordination loss. Buy travel insurance that explicitly covers trekking above 5,500 metres plus helicopter evacuation, roughly ₹2,000 to ₹4,500 for a 2-week trip, and carry the emergency number offline.

Week plan, days 1 to 6: Day 1, drive Besisahar to Dharapani or Chame. Day 2, walk to Upper Pisang for first big Annapurna views. Day 3, walk to Manang via the upper trail through Ghyaru and Ngawal if your legs feel strong. Day 4, rest in Manang with an acclimatisation hike, bakery stop, and gear check. Day 5, short walk to Yak Kharka. Day 6, short walk to Thorong Phedi or High Camp, with an early dinner and headlamp check.

Week plan, days 7 to 12: Day 7, cross Thorong La to Muktinath, the longest day at 8 to 10 hours, starting near 4.00. Day 8, descend to Jomsom for apples, bakeries, and a hot shower. Days 9 to 10, jeep or walk toward Tatopani for hot springs, then continue to Ghorepani. Day 11, sunrise at Poon Hill and walk down to Tikhedhunga. Day 12, drive to Pokhara for lakeside rest. Add spare days for weather or tired legs.

Food and student hacks: dal bhat is the best value, with free refills in many lodges, plus garlic soup, porridge, eggs, and ginger tea at altitude. Refill safe drinking water at teahouse stations or purify tap water instead of buying endless plastic bottles. Rooms get colder with height, so carry a 3-season sleeping bag even though blankets are provided. Bargain politely, eat where you sleep, and charge devices over dinner, because charging fees rise higher up.

Visas and money for Indian passports: Indian citizens do not need a visa for Nepal, and can enter with a valid passport or Election Commission ID card, though Aadhaar alone is not accepted. Other foreign readers usually get a visa on arrival, with fees of US$30 for 15 days, US$50 for 30 days, and US$125 for 90 days, check current immigration notices. Nepal now accepts Indian ₹200 and ₹500 notes printed after November 2016, up to ₹25,000 per person, though small lodges still prefer Nepali rupees or ₹100 notes. ATMs in Pokhara and Jomsom charge fees and run dry, so carry cash.

For foreign readers: Nepal is warmly hospitable, and small courtesies matter a lot on the trail. Remove shoes before entering lodge kitchens and shrines, walk clockwise around mani walls and chortens, dress modestly, and ask before photographing people. Meat higher up is often carried long distances, so many trekkers eat vegetarian above Manang for freshness and to respect Buddhist villages. Keep your passport, permits, and insurance details together, and share your itinerary with someone at home.

The Circuit rewards slow walkers more than fast ones. Do not let jeep roads rush you, because the side trails through villages are quieter and kinder for acclimatisation. Check pass weather every evening from Manang onward, and turn back if the wind howls or snow falls. With honest budgeting, rest days, and insurance in hand, Thorong La is a tough but deeply joyful student crossing.